Mafia Island lies some 128km south of Dar es Salaam, approximately 30 minutes by air, and a little longer from Zanzibar. The Arabs grew plantations of cashew nuts here, while the British used its deep waters as a naval base during the First World War. Recognised as a fisherman's paradise, marlin, sailfish, shark, kingfish, barracuda, wahoo and some of the world's biggest tunny are found here. The beaches are narrow, but the diving spectacular.

Chole Mjini Lodge is just across the channel, a short dhow journey from Mafia Island. It's a unique tree-lodge that overlooks the mangrove and has appeal to guests who want simplicity in a natural setting. More of a cultural experience is offered here, as there is a fishing village, a school and a fascinating 'flying fox' roosting spot close by.

Kinasi Lodge is a splendid little retreat with an idyllic 'away-from-it-all' atmosphere. It lies in a tranquil setting with a pool, swaying palms, landscaped gardens and Chole Bay on your doorstep. Kinasi is an excellent base for diving, sailing, dhow trips, exploring the island or simply taking in the ambience. There are 13 private chalets, with a charming rustic romance and a high standard of comfort.

Pole Pole is a sleepy Italian-flavoured ten-roomed lodge around the bay from Kinasi. The rooms are a little more sophisticated, with polished floors, mahogany furniture and Italian linen but activities are the same. There's also a nice bar-cum-restaurant down near the beach where you can relax and watch time pass by.